Step by Step Mountain Wall Mural

Hey guys!  So many of you probably saw me post this picture on my Instagram account a few months back but I wanted to share some of the details with you because regardless of what everyone thinks I swear it is EASY.  If you have two hands, a few hours, a creative mindset and a butt load of painters tape you can totally do it.  Reid and I actually got up at 5 am and knocked this out with some awesome teamwork before Auggie even woke up at 730…not kidding!  I’m only going to post pictures from when this was first finished without any of the recent updates we’ve done to the room since then..those will be separate blog posts coming up!  Gotta keep y’all on your toes ūüėČ  By the way, I’m not even close to being southern, but I always envy all the cute girls from the south that get to say y’all in all of their sentences, so today we’re just going to go with it!

If you’re not following me on Instagram you’re probably wondering why in the world we did this massive mountain mural on one of the walls of our 3 bedroom house.  Well, I am pregnant with our second boy, due in May, and we are planning on switching Auggie over to a “big boy room” in the next couple months and putting the baby in the current nursery.  It seemed like the right answer for us considering the nursery is fully setup.  Auggie will be about 18 months when he’s born, so he will still be little, but it’s definitely a room he will grow into!  I spent a lot of time stalking Pinterest ideas and drawing out sketches in that room and doing an outdoor adventure themed room just seemed really fitting for the area we live in and also the hobbies of the family.  This room has been totally designed from scratch, it was our guest bedroom before, so all of that got moved out, and we got to start with a blank slate.  Step one…paint the walls!  Side note, we painted the other walls in the room Benjamin Moore’s Revere Pewter, the same color as the rest of the house! This is an amazing color because it really can take on a light grey or taupe color depending on its surroundings.

Materials Used:

  • Painters tape
  • Painters tarp to cover floor
  • Lots of rags/microfiber towels around for oopsies (it happens more than it should for me)
  • Respirator
  • All paint colors are Behr Marquee…I swear by this brand, it’s the JAM!
  • Paint Brush to get in the tips of mountain ranges/smaller areas
  • Edger
  • Roller
  • Lots of COFFEE & some good teamwork!

Step 1: Painter’s tape will be your best friend in this project…get lots of it.  Normally we use the green frog tape because that stuff is the best in the tape world, but this time we just used normal blue painters tape because it’s a bit flimsier and easier to shape.   Also…safety is very important when painting in a small room (especially if pregnant!)  We spent about $30 on this respirator and I use it for all projects, painting, staining, cutting, etc.

Step 2: Tape off the pointy mountain ranges to how you would like them, this is the first step we did because you can be sloppy towards the bottom since there will be the dark “rough terrain” that will be painted on the bottom quarter.  Paint within the tape with either a paint brush or edger.  The color used here is Revere Pewter so it tied in with the surrounding walls, plus like I said it’s one of my favorite grey paints.  Let this dry about 15 minutes (you’ll be able to quickly touch it with your finger to see if it’s cured enough to move on).

Step 3: Trace the sun..this was probably the hardest part, which I made Reid do because he has the hands of a surgeon!  I’m totally too spastic for that, but he nailed it (pun intended).  To make it perfectly round he placed a nail in the wall, tied some string around it, and a pencil at the end of the string to give him a sturdy guide, basically a DIY compass that we could adjust to the appropriate size of what we wanted.  Genius!  The color of the sun was Behr Marquee “Fuzzy Duckling.”

Step 4: As the sun and the top mountain range is drying up I taped off tiny triangles going in different directions to make the sun beams… I also just thought it added some nice character to the wall.  The color used on this is Behr Marquee Trinket Gold.

Step 5: Remove tape!  There’s a fine line with tape removal, you don’t want it to sit too long so that the tape tacks up over it and peels off poorly, but you also don’t want to remove it right away.  A good time frame is probably 15-30 minutes, you’ll be able to tell by giving it a little tap with the tip of your finger.

Step 6: Free hand the dark terrain at the bottom.  So for this part, I actually just sketched this on with pencil ahead of time so I had a rough idea of what I wanted and from there Reid just used a paint brush & edger to fill it all on to the bottom of the wall.  The color used here was leftover from painting the exterior of our house this summer, we ran out of it after this project so I am unable to reference it but I am pretty sure it is called Behr Marquee Graphic Charcoal.   

Step 7: Once the mountain tops are dry you can add more painters tape and do the “icy tops.”  For this color we did Behr Marquee Seagull Gray.  

Step 8:  Attach plane to the wall…this will just depend on what kind of plane you have if you choose to do this step.  Reid had to buy some brackets to put through the wheels and attach to the wall.  It took some thinking but that plane is anchored up there and not coming down any time soon!  I was super excited about this addition because I have had this plane sitting in storage for a few years now hoping I would someday get to make use of it!  It’s also Auggie’s favorite part of the room, he lays in his big boy bed and makes airplane sounds as he stares at it.  How’s that for CUTE?!

Other little tidbits:

Please excuse the terrible lighting in these photos…it was 5 am and I didn’t have my nice camera charged!!! Also, since there were so many different paint colors used in such small areas I just got the sample sizes of most of the paint colors (except Revere Pewter) they are way cheaper, I think about $5 a pop.

I hope this was helpful!  I know not everyone is planning on painting a wall mural in their rooms any time soon, but I just wanted to let you know by sharing this post that a lot of the things you see on Pinterest which look impossible to do really are NOT!  If you take it step by step you can amaze yourself with the possibilities of DIY projects.

Since this wall has been completed, Reid has built a big boy bed, we did the window seat (posted below) built floating shelves above the new dresser, and found an awesome lambs wool rug.  I am hoping to have this room totally finished in the next month and will do a full tour for you all.  Stay tuned!

Sending you lots of positive vibes to get you through the rest of your week,


DIY EASY Window Seat Tutorial

Happy Martin Luther King Jr holiday, I hope everyone was¬†able to enjoy their time off today! I wanted to share with you our most recent project which was a built-in window seat & cushion for Auggie’s big boy outdoor adventure room. ¬†The window seat was a custom fit to tailor the specific window nook in the room and I had the hardest time finding a window seat cushion that would A) fit the space exactly & B) not cost an insane amount of money. ¬†Naturally, I browsed “the Pinterest” as my husband calls it, and looked for fun ways to do this seat myself. ¬†Keep in mind, I have zero experience with a sewing machine, nor did I really want to learn at this moment in time. ¬†(It is on my to do list in the future though!) ¬†I came across a couple of blogs where they actually used memory/upholstery foam and placed some type of hard surface beneath it in order to staple the fabric to¬†that for a sturdier hold. ¬†JoAnn Fabrics is great with their sales, I ended up coming across the extra dense 2″ memory foam that I wanted on mega sale…this stuff can be pricey so I would definitely wait until the next sale comes up. ¬†2″ was perfect for what I was looking for but you may want a thicker cushion depending on what you need. ¬†We picked up a large piece of pegboard from Home Depot and Reid cut that and the foam to the appropriate size to custom fit our window seat¬†space. ¬†We then picked up a heavy-duty furniture upholstery fabric from JoAnn’s, it was HGTV brand, 50% off! ¬†I am obsessed with the color/pattern/texture of the fabric, it’s even better than what I had imagined. ¬†That’s the bonus of doing it yourself, you get EXACTLY what you want!


  • Memory Foam, the exact one I used is found here
  • 1/4″ Plywood (We used pegboard but I wouldn’t choose that again, the holes made it really hard for staples to stay in place)
  • Fabric, I recommend an upholstery fabric, it’s thicker and better quality to last longer
  • Staple gun, I just purchased this one from Home Depot, and it has killer reviews and is manual which I like, especially for indoor projects
  • Some type of saw for cutting down wood¬†to exact measurement, we used a jigsaw
  • Good scissors or razor to cut down memory foam to exact measurement
  • Heavy duty¬†glue (we used gorilla glue)


  • Cut memory foam to appropriate size using heavy-duty scissors and/or a sharp razor
  • Cut pegboard to appropriate size (should exactly line up with memory foam)
  • Cut fabric to be able to wrap around edges enough to fold over and staple it to bottom side (you don’t need a lot of overhang here though since you won’t see the bottom)
  • Having a second person around for the pulling and holding would be ideal
  • Tightly pull the fabric over the end sides, apply glue to the pegboard then lay fabric down and hold for a few seconds
  • Grab your staple gun and start applying staples through the fabric into the wood surface
  • Repeat this process for other end side
  • Fold over long sides and repeat glue and staple process while someone firmly pulls fabric (this may take a little messing with/cutting/tucking in order to make the fold-over crease¬†look professional)
  • It’s as simple as that…you’re done!
  • Side note: I may end up adding some velcro to the bottom of the cushion, since it’s in a toddlers room, I know it will get a lot of rough play and it could be useful for keeping it in place…to all the fellow mamas¬†out there!

I plan on sharing more photos of this nook, I am still on the hunt for the perfect pillows, drapes, and storage bins to complete this space.  Thanks for reading all, have a fabulous week!


{ X Brace } Farmhouse Dining Table

You guys…. I FINALLY get to share this amazing farmhouse table with you all!

If you know me, you know I have been hassling my husband about building me a huge table for probably 3 years now.  He must have gotten sick of listening to my “reasonings” as to why we NEEDED this table ūüėČ  There is nothing better than having a big cozy spot to sit at and enjoy conversation with family & friends.  As you know by now, I’m a little bit of a Pinterest stalker.  I have been going through all the farmhouse dining table feed trying to decide exactly what I wanted and envisioned in our dining space.  I narrowed it down to a couple great options but I chose this one because of the hefty legs and metal brace.  I just thought it was really unique and special!  I also had always envisioned having a bench on one side, simple chairs on the other, and two big cozy chairs on the ends.  I will get to all of that after the step by step building plans.

For this exact table we really didn’t follow any official plans.  I found this picture on Pinterest and was feeling drawn to this look yet still wanted to make it our own.  This picture is actually advertising one of the clear chairs so unfortunately the table is not for purchase, nor can you find plans for it anywhere!  Our bench can be found through my favorite Shanty 2 Chic gals.  We didn’t intend to use these exact plans, but with how long it ended up being we needed the extra third X brace to support the weight of the wood.  Plans for the bench can be found here.

Are you guys ready to dive on in?  I have my trusty handyman sitting right next to me so you get the full run through.

Table Size: 87″ length x 40″ Width x 30″ height  

Table top: 2 x 10 x 8 are cut to 77″ long 

Both 2 x 6 x 8 end caps are 5″ long to get the total length of 87″

Materials needed:

  • Table saw
  • Miter saw
  • Circular saw
  • Kreg Jig
  • Biscuit Joiner
  • Drill
  • Orbital or belt sander
  • Counter sink drill bits
  • Wood filler
  • Wood glue
  • Clamps (Minimum 6)

Lumber & Fasteners:

  • 4.5″ wood screws for the base (16)
  • 2.5″ wood screws
  • 2.5″ pocket screws for table top
  • 2″x 10″x 8′ for table top (5)
  • 2″ x 6″ x 12′ for table top end caps and feet (1)
  • 4″ x 4″ x 8′ for legs and X braces (3)
  • 1″ x 48″ black conduit
  • 1″ iron floor flange (2)

Cut List 

  • Cut all five of your 2” x 10 ” boards to 78″ long
    • Note: We will cut the boards down to their final length of 77″ with a circular saw and guide once they are all joined. This will allow for a perfectly square and flush edge across all boards. If you are confident in your ability to cut 5 boards perfectly the same length and seamlessly join them then feel free to cut them to 77″ right off the bat.
    • The type of stud lumber we are using has rounded edges. We want them to be square so that they are nice and flush once joined for the table top. We also want to leave the rounded edge on the two outboard pieces. It is also extremely important to take your time selecting these boards from the store. If they are bowed or twisted they will not join up well and you will have a warped table top. We were able to find some really nice straight boards but if you have warped boards you will need to run them through a thickness planer and jointer to get them square.
      • For the middle 3 boards set your table saw to take off 5/8″ and run the boards through on both edges. This will take off 1.25″ total and leave you with a board that is 8″ wide. 2″ x 10″ boards are nominally 1.5″ by 9.25″ to begin with.
      • For the 2 edge boards set your table saw to take off 1.25″ and only run them through on one edge.
  • Cut your 2″ x 6″ board into two 40.25″ pieces for the end caps. The reason these are cut slightly wider than the table width is to allow for sanding the squared edges down once joined to the table top. Save the rest of this board as you will need it for the feet.
    • Set your table saw to take off 1/2″ and run the 40 pieces through on one edge only.
  • Cut 4 pieces of 4″ x 6 ” with a 45 degree bevel to 12″ on the long side
  • Cut 2 pieces of 4″ x 4″ to 20 inches for the vertical supports
  • Cut 8 pieces of 4″ x 4″ with a 45 degree miter on both sides to a length of 14 inches on the long side for the “X” braces
  • Cut 2 pieces of 4″ x 4″ to 36 inches for the top horizontal support
  • Cut 2 pieces of 4″ x 6″ to 36″ for the bottom base supports
    • To round off the edges on the 4″ x 4″ and 4″ x 6″ there are a couple of options.
      • Option #1: If you have a band saw or access to one this would be the best option. Make a stencil to round off the edge into a profile you like and copy it across all the boards then cut it with your band saw.
      • Option #2: Mark off a few points that approximate the curve you want. Make 3 cuts with your miter saw, one at 30 degrees, one at 45 degrees, and one at 60 degrees. Then use your orbital sander to smooth it out starting with a coarse grit and moving to a finer grit to finish. This is what I did for the 4″ by 4″ and it turned out really nice. My miter saw wasn’t big enough to do this for 4″ x 6″ so I used a reciprocating saw. It was very difficult and definitely didn’t turn out as nice as the 4″ x 4″ pieces. But hey it is a rustic table so a little imperfection here is ok.


Now that all the cuts have been made it’s time to start putting things together. We’ll start with the table top. Arrange your boards side to side according to how you want the final product to look. You can swap the middle boards around if you don’t like the way the different grains look next to each other. Once they are all lined up to your liking push them together on a flat surface and mark 4 spots along the seams between all of the adjoining boards. I marked mine at 4″, 27″, 50″, and 73″. These will be the locations for our biscuits. Set your biscuit joiner depth to 3/4″ so the biscuits are sitting dead center on the board and cut your biscuit holes at these locations. The biscuits will not add much structural support but are really there to ensure that the boards sit flush with each other.

Next, drill pocket holes in the bottom of the boards to assist in joining them. Set your Kreg Jig for 1.5 inches thick. I used 3 pocket holes per board (One close to each end and one in the middle) but over to you if you want to add a few more. These will give added strength and really help to ensure a snug fit between your boards. It’s easy to get confused with which way you should be drilling when you are flipping boards over one at a time so take your time here.

You are now ready to join the table top together. Place your boards on a flat surface with the top facing down so that you will have access to the pocket holes. Place biscuits in all of your holes. One at a time apply a bead of wood glue on the edge between two boards and press them together. If you are having trouble getting them to seat fully use a rubber mallet or a hammer and a piece of scrap wood to help apply the necessary force. Use 2.5″ pocket screws to cinch down the joint, first making sure that you are lining up the edges of the boards to the best of your ability. If it’s a little bit off that’s ok we’re going to cut a bit off to square it up after everything is together. Do this all the way across until all of your boards are together. Add clamps across the width of the table top to secure everything. The more clamps the better but i would recommend at least 6. They are about 15 dollars a piece even if you get the economy brand. Here is a link for some decent ones, You want your clamps to be snug but not so much that they cause your table to bow. If you don’t want to spring for the clamps you will be just fine as long as you add more pocket screws. If this is the case for you I would recommend a pocket screw every foot along the length of each joint. Follow the instructions on your wood glue for how long it needs to cure before the bond is secure. I used Elmer’s Max wood glue and waited about 8 hours before i handled it and it held up just fine.

Once the glue is dry it’s time to trim the edges so that everything is square. I had some minor differences, probably about 1/16″, where one board was sticking out further than the other. This will cause your end caps to not mount properly and there will be a gap. To remedy this you just need to take a little off each end with a circular saw. Do not draw a line and try to follow it because you will not be able to saw perfectly straight across the length. You want to use a guide here. Use your pencil to mark 1/2″ on the end board. Set up your guide so that your saw blade will cut at the right location. You can buy a guide or use something you already have in your garage. I used a 4′ aluminum level but really any straight object that you can clamp down will work. This video has some great examples. Take a half-inch off both ends and you should be left with a seamless table top that is now exactly 77″ long. If you have some larger imperfections you may have to take a little less material off in order to get you table top to 77 inches finished. Mine ended up at about 76.5.

Next attach the end caps by using the same process of biscuits and pocket screws. I used 3 biscuits and 5 pocket screws on each end cap for added strength. The exact locations on the biscuits isn’t extremely important as long as you have one near each end and one near the middle. Once you have the end caps attached and drying you can move on to the legs.

Begin by first attaching the top horizontal 4″x4″ to the vertical 4″x4″. Mark the center of the horizontal 4″x4″ and drill 4 countersink pilot holes. Add wood glue to the end of the vertical support and use 4.5″ wood screws to screw through the horizontal 4″x4″ and into the end of the vertical support. Use clamps to ensure that the boards don’t shift as you are securing them. You should now have a piece that looks a “T”. Flip the piece over and use the same procedure to secure the 4″x6″ bottom horizontal piece to the vertical 4″x4″. Make sure that your 4″x4″ is sitting dead center on your 4″x6″. There should be a one inch overhang on each side. Once the 4″x6″ piece is secure use countersink pilot holes, glue, and 2.5″ wood screws to secure the feet to the bottom of the 4″x6″ base. Next attach the X-braces with 2 countersink holes, glue, and 2.5″ wood screws at each joint. After all the X-braces are in place you  are done and ready to start the finishing process.

Fill all the holes in the X-braces with wood filler. Overfill slightly to allow for sanding. Let dry for 24 hours before sanding. If you would like, add pocket hole plugs and wood filler to the bottom of your table top…or don’t, no one is ever going to look under your table anyway. I added plugs only because it was easy and did not worry about the bottom of the table looking perfect. Sand the entire project using your orbital sander starting with a coarse grit for major imperfections. I began with 80, went up to 150,  and finished with 220 on the table top only. If you have some very large imperfections that need to be leveled out you can use something coarser like a 40 grit but it will really tear up the wood. Just make sure you leave enough excess to hit it with finer grits as you get it close to where it needs to be.


  • Minwax Wood Conditioner (don’t skip this step, it makes a difference!)
  • One coat of Minwax Weathered Oak
  • One coat of Minwax Special Walnut
  • 3 coats of Varathane Polyurethane, Matte Soft Touch
  • Lambs Wool Applicator for smooth & easy stain (this was a tip from Shanty 2 Chic gals, and it worked like a charm, I will 100% be doing this every time in the future)
  • Microfiber towel or painters rag to wipe off any excess stain the lambs wool may have left
  • Small brush to get in cracks of the X Brace legs, OR use a microfiber towel, or painters rag to get in small hard to reach places
  • High quality synthetic paint brush for sealant
  • Respirator, we have this one.  I had to use this right now being pregnant but I really do recommend it in general, with the amount of time it takes to stain and all the chemicals you’re inhaling in that span of time I think it’s a safe way to go!

The Process:

Start by applying the wood conditioner with a microfiber towel according to the instructions on the can. It’s pretty simple and will go on quickly. The wood conditioner will make your final product look so much better and less blotchy so don’t skip it.

Apply your first coat of weathered oak with your lambswool applicator to the bottom of the table and the legs. You may need a brush to get into some of the hard to reach places on the legs. Let it sit on the surface for 5-10 minutes then lightly wipe off excess with a tack cloth. Now you just need to let it dry. Drying time will vary based on temperature and humidity but could take awhile. We did that first coat in the morning around 8AM, then came back at 4PM and did the special walnut coat on the bottom of the table only.

The next morning come back out and flip the table top over. You can now do the first coat of weathered oak on it. You will get a better result if you wait for it to fully dry before resting the stained portion on anything but we weren’t too worried about the bottom of the table being absolutely perfect. That afternoon we applied the special walnut to the table top and the legs. Take it slow with the special walnut. It is a very dark stain so don’t let it rest on the surface for too long. You can always off another coat if you want it darker but it would be a real pain to sand it all off.

Now the hard part. Wait anywhere from 24-48 hours for the stain to fully and thoroughly dry before applying the polyurethane. You don’t want to seal water into your wood so be patient here.

Once everything is dry apply your first coat of polyurethane. When applying the polyurethane use smooth brush strokes with the grain. It will probably take a quite a bit on the first coat as the wood absorbs it. Don’t worry about being able to see small brush strokes as the urethane will self level as it dries. It will go on with a milky appearance but dry clear. Wait 2 hours and apply a second coat, no sanding required. This coat should go on much easier. Never apply more than 2 coats in a day. Wait 24 hours. You’ll want to lightly sand with a very fine grit sandpaper before the final coat, something 220 or up. Wipe with a dry cloth to remove the dust and apply your 3rd coat. We did not apply any polyurethane to the bottom of the tabletop. Now you just have to let it dry and cure up.

The can says to wait 7 days for it to fully cure… we waited 3 days after the last coat of sealant before bringing it inside to assemble, it’s important to make sure it’s fully cured and ready to be used, if you rush this process you could end up with permanent marks on your table from whatever you set on it.  You’ll want to bring in the legs, metal brace and table top separate because with the real pine lumber it is HEAVY!  It also wouldn’t have fit through our doorway assembled.

Final Assembly:

This is going to take 2 people, but 3 would make it easier. Set up your two legs spaced at approximately the correct distance apart. Screw the floor flanges onto the conduit before attaching to the supports. We centered ours up where the bottom X supports meet the vertical support. Screw it into the vertical support with 2.5″ wood screws. Put a level on it and adjust the other leg so that it sits flush against it and attach to the second leg. You should now have a secure base to place the table top on.

Drill 4 countersink pilot holes through the horizontal 4 x 4 up towards the table top, one on each corner of where the table will be attached. If you want to use more than 4 go for it, but ours is holding up great. Set the table top on your base. Take measurements of the overhang on both ends. It should be equal. If it is you know it is centered up end to end. Also measure the overhang on the sides of the horizontal supports. Once you have equal measurements on these 4 points you know it is centered up side to side. Secure the table top with 4″ wood screws.


Take your time selecting lumber. Boards with bows and twists will make this project very hard.

Stain bottom of table top first so that it never rests on the finished top edge, this is important!!!

All instructions are on back of stain/sealant cans, we always follow these.  Staining is a long process that requires lots of patience and waiting time but its worth it!  Take this from a girl who likes to see projects done immediately upon seeing them on Pinterest ūüėČ


Tufted fabric end chairs found at Wayfair

Bronze metal chairs found on Amazon

Ivory ceramic lanterns found at Crate & Barrel, old, but similar ones found here, here & here

Rug found on sale at Target

If there’s anything you think we missed in these plans please send me a message and we will try to help you out!  You guys can follow my inspiration on Pinterest by clicking on the “Follow Me” link on the right hand side of my blog.


Coffee Bar Makeover

Happy weekend friends!

I am super excited to share this post with you all, this was my first solo project! ¬†Granted I probably asked Reid 1,000 questions along the way but hey, that’s how you learn! ¬†This is how it all started…as some of you know little boys are very busy and move FAST. ¬†Auggie is now to the age where he wants to stand up on everything. ¬†Before this project came into my mind I had an awesome Storables cart I designed for when I lived in my downtown Seattle studio. ¬†It worked as a little two person dining table and also storage (oh that big city living!) ¬†When I moved up north into our house I wanted to make use of it and ended up designing this sweet coffee bar as a present to Reid while he was on deployment! ¬†I love this corner of our house, everything about it makes me happy! ¬†As Auggie grows…so does our list of baby proofing, know what I mean? ¬†He has gotten to the point where he can stand up and grab the mugs off the top shelf…Mama needs those mugs for her daily dose (okay doses) of coffee! ¬†This being said…I started stalking Craigslist for an old piece of furniture I could transform into something awesome and auggie-proof!

I ended up finding this old TV stand for $40 and drew up a super non-professional¬†design on a note card and went from there! ¬†I had a vision for what I wanted so once I found a piece that would work I went for it. Here’s what I knew…I wanted chicken wire, fun knobs, and a bold color to bring in some character to our white & grey color palette. ¬†It turned out above and beyond what I was expecting, of course it took WAY more time, money, and curse words than I had anticipated but that’s every project for you ūüėČ ¬†For all of you HGTV fans, don’t get me wrong, I love that station to death but damnnn it’s not as easy as they make it look! ¬†I’ll take one reality¬†check please!

Materials Used:

  • Orbital Sander with 80 Grit Discs
  • Coarse Sanding Sponge or sand paper to get in the corners
  • Wood filler–Recommend Elmer’s brand¬†
  • White paint–I used a cheap version from Ace Hardware, it took me 3 coats to do the inside of the cabinet so I would recommend something better quality like Behr Marquee (our all time favorite!)
  • Chicken Wire — Any hardware store sells this, I get it from Home Depot
  • Staple Gun
  • Annie Sloan Chalk Paint in Napoleonic Blue–this stuff is pretty pricey, about $35 for a can of it but the color is fabulous and it has great ratings,¬†check it out here
  • Annie Sloan Dark Wax– this brought out the wood grain and added a little darkness and shabbiness to the piece
  • Rustoleum Oil rubbed bronze spray paint for the old gold hardware
  • Painters Cloths
  • Paint rollers
  • Angled Paint Brush
  • Frog tape
  • Knobs –found at Hobby Lobby
  • Side hanging hooks– found at Hobby Lobby

Below I’ve posted some pictures of the process…enjoy!

DSC02279Here’s the cabinet in all it’s original glory as I began to take off all the hardware, doors, shelves, etc. ¬†DSC02284I used heavy duty yard pruners along with my hands to take out all the wooden slats, then proceeded to fill each hole with wood filler, let it dry for 24 hours and sand it for a flushed look.


DSC02298Ohhh the words I could use to describe the orbital sander…but this is a family friendly blog so we won’t go there ūüėČ ¬†Sanding is a long and slow process but I really recommend it if you want your project to look professional and last! ¬†I used 80 grit hook and grip discs for this piece. ¬†Also can we talk about my awkward claw in this photo? WTF.¬†

DSC02303Here it is, two long and sweaty days later, fully stripped down and ready for paint!

DSC02309Back and insides painted white (let dry overnight) then Annie Sloan Napoleonic Blue Chalk Paint was applied with a handheld roller along with an angled brush to get in the corners.


Annie Sloan Soft Dark Wax was applied with a painters cloth to get the dark “shabby” look, I did my strokes with the grain but you can do it any way you like, or with a hard¬†bristled brush. ¬†She has videos on her website if you want to watch more tutorials on painting/waxing techniques recommended for her products but I just kind of went with what felt right!DSC02316Staple gun was used to apply chicken wire to back of doors after paint & wax have been applied and allowed at least 24 hours to dry, this was my favorite part of the project!!! ¬†I totally felt like a child but staple guns are FUN. ¬†DSC02320


DSC02324Finished look with chicken wire and safety locks added. ¬†This lock was found at Ace but you can really find them at any hardware store…knobs are from Hobby Lobby and I love them!


Now for the final reveal… (drumroll please)






And there you have it folks! ¬†A year ago I never would’ve thought I was doing my own handy project, but I dedicated myself to learning something out of my comfort zone and¬†could not more pleased with the outcome!

Thanks for taking time out of your day to check out this post, we will be in touch!

As always, Sincerely the Smith’s



Drab to Fab


Good morning beautiful friends!

Normally I get a serious case of the Mondays (and Tuesdays) but I have to say that this gorgeous sunshiny weather has me feeling amped up and ready to rock this week! ¬†So here it goes…I have been meaning to do a post on our¬†beautiful refinished buffet for a while now.¬† A few months ago we had the debate of selling our large wooden buffet or refinishing it. ¬†It must have¬†sat in our garage for months! ¬†It is such a great¬†piece and really is great for extra storage (which we need!!!) ¬†The only problem was that it no longer matched with any of our furniture & paint colors! ¬†I had browsed lots of ideas on Pinterest and ended up coming up with a design that made it look totally brand new! ¬†Instead of the old brown netting that kept popping out on the top sections, we added chicken wire to the inside of doors by using a staple gun. ¬†Chicken wire is super durable and also CHEAP! ¬†I found awesome brushed black handles for the cabinet doors from Home Depot and Reid spent multiple days sanding it down in order to spray the entire cabinet white. ¬†The same color was used as all of our kitchen cabinets, Behr Marquee Polar Bear. ¬†The buffet itself was already a big gorgeous piece, it just needed a little TLC. ¬†I couldn’t be happier with how well it turned out with just a few modern updates here and there.

All in all, it seems like a quick fix, but the amount of work sanding, priming & spraying ends up taking about a week if you do a little bit each day.  The worst part about these projects is waiting for the primer/paint to dry to do the next coat!

Below are some pictures of the cabinet before and after.


Coffee mug holder: World Market 

Record player: Crosley…Old version, but found lots of great ones here.

White vases:  Old but similar ones found here.

Reclaimed¬†wood¬†wine rack: Etsy…best purchase ever for under $100!


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Thanks for checking in! ¬†Hope to chat with you soon ūüôā



Farmhouse X Coffee Table





Good morning my lovely blog followers! ¬†Can I just say that¬†I looked at my site stats and had 23 views yesterday alone…SAY WHAT! ¬†I was laughing when I told Reid because I was convinced it was just my family¬†that had any interest in my¬†babbling ūüėČ ¬†That may seem like a very small number of views to some of the well-establish bloggers but I was quite surprised and grateful for all of you that take the time to read my posts! ¬†Since I am new to the blogging game, I would love all of your feedback and input!

Alright, time to get this coffee table post started! ¬†As you know, we recently completed a remodel of the main area of our house, light grey walls, white backsplash, white cabinets and updated or refurbished furniture! ¬†It’s all coming together perfectly. ¬†The one thing that was driving me crazy (okay let’s be real there’s always more than one thing) was our old brown couches in the living area. ¬†They have served us well but it was time to step our lounge game up! ¬†After years of begging, my lovely husband agreed to look at leather couches. ¬†Leather is a big step up in price but for our hot mess of a family, totally worth the extra splurge. ¬†Our puppy Willie lives in a mud puddle, our older lab Daisy sheds more than Chewbacca and Auggie is a baby and get the gist. ¬†So far, I am VERY pleased with how little maintenance leather requires! ¬†Now if only I can keep the dogs from creeping on our neighbors from the ledge of the¬†leather couch…Am I asking too much? ¬†The point is, with the new leather couches came the need for a coffee table to match the theme of the main hang area. ¬†As usual, I stalked Pinterest and came across this design from the one and only Ana White. ¬†That lady is a furniture¬†building goddess! ¬†The plans¬†to the X-coffee table are found here.

What you need to know for our specific version:   

Reid made 45 degree miter cuts on the top to frame it in for a more finished look. ¬†You can see in the Ana White plans that she went for a more rustic unfinished look which is gorgeous as well, it just depends what you’re looking for. ¬†The lumber used for the top of the table were 2×6 stud wood from Home Depot. ¬†1/8 of an inch was taken off each side of those pieces¬†in order for the wood to¬†have nice square corners. ¬†¬†

The bottom part of X-coffee table is two 1×12 common boards and the supported sides¬†are 2×2 while the ends are 2×4.

Metal L brackets were used on the corners of the table and sprayed with Rustoleum oil rubbed bronze paint.  Make sure to sand the metal well with 220 grit paper before spraying so that the paint will adhere.

Stain: One coat of Minwax oil based Special Walnut was painted on with a soft bristle brush and wiped off almost immediately, this particular stain is very dark.  The next layer was Minwax oil based weathered oak; let this sit for 5 minutes then wipe off.  The stain will look pretty dark at this stage, if you prefer this go ahead and leave it as is.  We were looking for some slight grey undertones so Reid slowly blended in white paint with a clean painters rag.  It was then sanded down with 220 grit sandpaper with an orbital sander.  Let sit for 24 hours for the stain to fully dry.  Finally it was finished with 3 coats of Minwax polycrylic clear satin sheen and hand sanded with 220 grit paper in between coats.

And voila!  You get a gorgeous looking coffee table for under $100!

Here’s where I come into play…Decor! ¬†Auggie and I had a lot of fun cruising up and down the home aisle’s yesterday! ¬†I am always on the lookout for a good deal. ¬†I found these baskets at Target, just really simple grey plastic baskets for $12.99 a pop. ¬†I was looking for something to blend well¬†but mainly¬†hide all of Auggie’s books and toys. ¬†Quite sneaky I am ūüėČ ¬† I love the look of hardback books stacked on a coffee table. ¬†(Magazines are superb as well!) ¬†Since we love all things about music and have an array of instruments around our house, I thought what better books to display than musical ones. ¬†Next up, flowers! ¬†I don’t know what it is about fresh flowers but they have a way of making your day a little bit brighter! ¬†The white vase holding the daffodils is from West Elm. ¬†The mini blue vases I got as a gift a while ago and was excited to be able to put them to use with some faux flowers from Hobby Lobby. ¬†One of my favorite spots for vases is West Elm. ¬†If you are looking for some fun vases to add some zest to your room¬†this would lead you in the right direction.

Moving on to the left side of the table¬†we have the canisters. ¬†The white canisters are actually for coffee but I really dug the look of the white with the wood to tie in the table. ¬†The white bird with a wooden rocker to match the theme is the dream! ¬†Also found at West Elm. ¬†I found the succulent in the bronze holder for under $5 at Target, they had tons of great options for plant terrariums. ¬†I think greenery always adds some warmth. ¬†The tiny hedgehog may be my favorite touch..he’s actually a pepper shaker found at Target. ¬†Oh yes…and I’m sure you are wondering where are Good Morning mugs are from (I am obsessed!) ¬†I found them at World Market a few years back and¬†I was still able to find them here.

Grey leather couches are made by Ashley Furniture but I found them on¬†Wayfair for waaay cheaper! ¬†Throw pillows are all from Target (all on sale right now), and 5×7 accent rug is Threshold brand from Target.




I hope you enjoyed this post….I am happy to answer any further questions. ¬†I’m really trying to work my magic on Reid building me my dream farmhouse dining room table but batting my eyelashes and using our stinkin’ adorable baby as bait only gets me so far. ¬†He told me he would consider it if he could buy his mega-expensive Fender electric guitar. ¬†Now talk about compromise!

If we’re lucky…you’ll be getting a dining table post sometime in the near future.

I have posted more thumbnail photos of the building process as well as some family updates down below. ¬†As for now, I am going to go enjoy this beautiful sunny weather! ¬†Us Washingtonians have to take advantage of any Vitamin D we can ūüôā ¬†Thanks for checking in, looking forward to sharing more with you soon!


The Smith’s

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Barn Door Media Console




Surprise…I’m back! Happy weekend everyone! ¬†I know it’s felt like 100 years since I’ve posted anything but I have been soaking up every second possible with my little dude! ¬†He’s almost in 6 month clothes, ahhhh. ¬†But it’s time I get back on the blog train…I miss it! ¬†Okay…maybe I missed my lovely husband building awesome things for me to post about ūüėõ

Today I am posting pictures of our most recent project…plans¬†by Ana-White. ¬†(Similar plans found here) ¬†Prior to me moving in, Reid liked to call the downstairs hang area his “man cave.” ¬†Sadly for him, I have pretty much taken over! ¬†We needed a little spruce up downstairs in order to add some life which is where this media console came into play. ¬†Warning: You do need a lot of power tools in order to build this piece but once you own them all, you pretty much can build any type of furniture!

We decided we liked the look of the “rustic” wood versus just spraying it white or grey. ¬†Most of the furniture in our house is that color scheme so we thought we would branch out a bit. ¬†In order to stain the plain pine wood, Reid made up a concoction of steel wool and apple cider vinegar as well as steel wool with white vinegar and let them sit in separate mason jars overnight. ¬†The two vinegars make different colored stains. ¬†Instructions for this found here. ¬†Before the vinegar stain is applied it is important that you essentially “beat up” your wood. ¬†Reid used tools such as hammers and socks stuffed with screws in order to imperfect the wood.

Once the stains¬†have sat for 24-48 hours you are able to brush on the stain and let’ll continue to get darker so don’t fret when you brush it on. ¬†He ended up doing 2 coats on all of the wood to achieve the color we were looking for. ¬†You can do more if you prefer it darker, or less if you are looking for a lighter more natural wood finish. ¬†After the stain had fully dried I picked out an ivory spray paint in order to achieve that “unfinished look.” ¬†Vaseline was applied in random splotches (paint won’t stick to vaseline) which helped that rustic¬†look.

Reid made the barn door hardware in order to save money and painted the metal with Rustoleum oil rubbed bronze spray paint.  The hardware plans are found here.

Now for the fun part…decorating! ¬†I was able to go to Tj Maxx & Hobby Lobby and get all of the decorating items for $50! ¬†Navy blue & white patterned baskets, wooden pig, metal water tin with¬†faux leaves, candles and white lantern are all courtesy of Hobby Lobby and their awesome 50% sales! ¬†That place is a dream come true. ¬†I found the white S at Tj Maxx and the metal basket was a gift from a friend but I have seen them many places! ¬†My ¬†next step to finishing our cave is refinishing the table, adding a colorful area rug, and built in cubbies along the wall where we can set up a kiddie play area. ¬†So much to look forward to!

I hope you enjoyed this project! ¬†Full step by step instructions located at ¬†It’s really cool to see the different variations all of her followers have done! ¬†If you have any further questions on the media console we are¬†happy to help!

For our next project…Coffee table!!! ¬†We just ordered these amazing grey leather couches for our main living room and are looking for a nice wood coffee table to add a little pizzaz ūüėČ ¬†I think I found the perfect one for Reid to do…it’s a good thing he likes me!

More posts to come soon.

PS-How is Auggie going to be 4 months next week?! ¬†Someone make it stop! ¬†Recent pictures of our lil’ family posted below.


The Smith’s


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A Birthday Bash for the Best!


I was super excited to write this post today because I had so much fun putting together this birthday fiesta for Reid. ¬†I got some great photos, but seeing it in person was so much better! ¬†This year for Reid’s birthday I wanted to do something bigger since I didn’t know what next year would bring. ¬†Our favorite “quick” place to eat has always been Chipotle. ¬†Who doesn’t love a good burrito bowl? ¬†It’s so simple yet delicious. ¬†I happened to stumble upon some homemade recipes for Chipotle’s menu items on Pinterest. ¬†I also found a lot of good details about their seasonings & marinades on their website. ¬†The key to this party for me was organization and lots of preparation the days leading up to it (which is a whole new ball park for me!) ¬†My goal was to have everything in crock pots and ready for serving by time all of our family & friends arrived so that I was able to enjoy myself.

As for the decorations, I have always been a lover of chalkboard art.  I thought it added a nice touch to the house & helps guests navigate their way around.  The Corona bottle flower vases I found were so fun for the theme and added lots of color!  Below are some pictures I took  before the party.  I will share some links at the bottom of this post of recipes for this grand spanish fiesta!

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Recipes for the DIY Chipotle Burrito Bar:

  • Chipotle Adobo Chicken & Steak Marinade:¬†I used the ancho chile powder substitute¬†instead of soaking and de-seeing hot chili peppers and it still turned out delicious so I would recommend this option, major time saver. ¬†I¬†quadrupled this recipe for 40 pounds of meat. ¬†For the meat I used boneless skinless chicken thighs and top sirloin, both from Costco)
  • Cilantro Lime Rice: I did this in two different rice cookers using a Japanese long grain white rice we had in the pantry. ¬†After rice was cooked, I added lime juice, kosher salt, and cilantro and fluffed it with a fork…super easy!
  • Avocado Corn Salsa: This was the hit of the party..there were barely any leftovers! ¬†I messed around with this recipe, added black pepper and cumin and more salt than it called for. ¬†I purchased the large frozen bag of organic white corn from Costco, it was delicious¬†and fed plenty of people.
  • Black Beans: Simple canned black beans, no seasoning! ¬†I thought about adding spices such as cumin and oregano but I figured since everything else going in the burritos already had so much flavor it wasn’t necessary.
  • Saut√©ed green peppers & red onions: I glanced at the menu on Chipotle’s¬†website to see what seasonings they used and just did a simple olive oil saut√© with a little salt, pepper and oregano.
  • Queso Blanco: MY FAVORITE! ¬†It is so delicious I can’t even stand it! ¬†The recipe is super simple minus the fact¬†finding a block of white american cheese in this town wasn’t the easiest. ¬†The only place I was able to find it was in the deli and had to ask them to cut me off 2 pounds off the huge block. ¬†Worth it!


  • Reese’s peanut butter cupcakes: Don’t even get me started on these or it’ll make me bake more right now! ¬†These are to die for, also the homemade frosting is super easy and delightful.
  • Funfetti: Boxed funetti cake mix and vanilla funfetti frosting (Hey, I couldn’t homemake it all!!!)


  • Margarita Bar: The idea here was to have a bunch of different options and let people create their favorite type of margarita on the rocks!
  • Silver Tequila from Costco…obviously I cannot drink right now but I was told it was pretty tasty and also only $30 for 1.75 liters, score!
  • Mango Margarita mix from Williams Sonoma
  • Sweet & Sour Margarita Mix from Costco
  • Triple Sec
  • Fresh Limes
  • Salt
  • San Pelligrino: I was told this was a party favorite…silver tequila mixed with fresh limes and flavored San Pelligrino sparkling soda.

This party definitely required a lot of work but it was so fun seeing it all come together and watching everyone enjoy themselves!  Happy birthday Reid!

Signing off for now,






Shabby Chic Farmhouse Inspired Kitchen





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Good evening¬†lovely blog readers! It has been an awesome rainy Washington¬†day here! ¬†People think I am crazy but I love the gloomy weather. ¬†It’s an excuse to drink endless cups of coffee and sit by the fireplace¬†all day! Fall couldn’t come soon enough for me ūüôā¬†¬†I keep¬†meaning to post pictures of our kitchen so I am finally doing it! ¬†My husband and I were sitting at the bar this morning in silence just taking in how amazing it all looks…such a drastic¬†transformation¬†for the price we completed¬†everything for! ¬†I posted a few before and after pictures and a few in between so you can see how the process went. ¬†The house was in shambles and we ate a lot of burritos and¬†pizza for a couple of weeks but the outcome was TOTALLY worth it!

The entire main level of our home prior to update this was a warm tan color with the living/dining room being an avocado green. ¬†All of our decorations were greens, reds and oranges so you could definitely feel the earth tones. ¬†I have been digging the rustic yet chic farmhouse look for years now…whites, grey, rustic wood and little pops of bright colors here and there. ¬†One morning we woke up and decided…you know what, let’s just do this already! ¬†We started off with painting the entire house a very light grey called Revere Pewter by Benjamin Moore. ¬†Home Depot did not sell this brand but were able to do a copycat color in their one coat only Behr Marquee which I highly recommend; it is amazing people! ¬†This paint color was the glue to our transformation, it immediately opened the room¬†right up and gave it a different feel. ¬†The next step was cabinet painting. ¬†Reid was able to borrow an air compressor and spray paint the doors of the cabinets which really turned out incredible.¬† I was not allowed to be a part of this process due to the strong fumes while being pregnant! ¬†I will tell you though that painting your cabinets is a long process. ¬†If you want to do it right you must dedicate yourself. ¬†Reid spent a few¬†hours each day working on them for about 2 weeks. To¬†be safe, you have to let the cabinets dry for about 5 days before placing them back in order to prevent chipping. ¬†Once again, worth it! ¬†Granite is a very large and expensive commitment and since we didn’t have the money for this we decided to stick with our dark counters. ¬†I wanted to find a way to tie in all the white with the dark counters so I pulled it all together¬†with these oil rubbed bronze european bar hardware and dark grey grout in the white subway tiles. ¬†I also did little decorative accents like white oil & vinegar bottles with black writing and a black wire fruit stand. ¬†The final step to this kitchen process was the backsplash. ¬†I have always thought white subway tiles are so clean and fresh looking and can really make a space pop. ¬†Lucky for us, Home Depot sells 3×6 subway tiles for a very reasonable price!!!

I included links to all of our updates in the photos below. ¬†If you have any further questions, I would be happy to answer them. ¬†We took a lot of great tips from YouTube DIY professionals or other home bloggers. ¬†There are a lot of creative people out there and lots of good inspiration! ¬†I hope you enjoy the photos. ¬†I posted them in thumbnail size so I could fit more but if you click on the photo you’ll be able to view¬†it larger. ¬†I love making our house a home¬†with my husband, it’s a very surreal bonding experience. ¬†I hope everyone has had a fabulous week…more to come later ūüôā


Before: Original oak cabinets & earth tone mosaic glass backsplash
Before: Original oak cabinets & earth tone mosaic glass backsplash
Step 1: Removing glass backsplash & painting all cabinets white (Behr - Polar Bear White)
Step 1: Removing glass backsplash & painting all cabinets white (Behr – Polar Bear White)
Step 2: White subway tile with pewter grey grout complete
Step 2: White subway tile with pewter grey grout & pewter caulk
Finished Product: DIY White cabinets, oil rubbed bronze hardware, white subway tile backsplash with dark grey grout
Finished Product: DIY White cabinets, oil rubbed bronze hardware, white subway tile backsplash with dark grey grout


Simple Canvas Accents


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Good morning love birds! ¬†Are you sick of my nursery DIY posts yet? ¬†My crazy nesting mode has me super excited to share all these fun projects with you so hold tight! ¬†I wanted to share with you my black and white animal canvases I painted for the nursery. ¬†While building our weathered grey bookshelves, I had Reid use all the same wood and stain to build a copycat version of Pottery Barn ledges to put above his changing table. ¬†This project was also super easy and found on this Pinterest page. ¬†Keep in mind, we did do things slightly different, we used lots of screw and anchors to hold it all together. ¬†She just used wood glue, but I didn’t trust this set up to be right over where the baby¬†lays. ¬†I also used the same weathered grey stain for these shelves. ¬†After we got these shelves built, stained, sanded down and anchored onto the wall I knew I wanted to do some fun simple but sweet canvases to add a little bit more character. ¬†I got a few ideas while browsing around online. ¬†I decided to freehand the lion, penguin, and polar bear because I thought they all would fit together perfectly and each add some silly charm! ¬†I decided on just black and white to keep it simple and go with the neutral theme of the room. ¬†Once again, I was able to use my acrylic paint¬†and brushes from Amazon as shown in my previous post. ¬†The 12×12 canvases I got for a steal here. ¬†Amazon had all different sizes of canvases but I was going for the simplistic boxy look!

In other news…I am 30 weeks TODAY! We went in for my 3D Ultrasound last week and it was so cool to see him cruising around in there. ¬†Our doctor said he already has incredibly chubby cheeks…best news ever! ¬†Who doesn’t love a baby with lots of extra chunk to squeeze? ¬†I have posted a few pictures below of lil man and I dancing around in the rain along with some other fun moments this week! ¬†We cannot wait to meet him, only 10 more weeks! (PS-You know I can’t NOT put my adorable pups in every post I do, come on!)

I hope everyone has a fabulous weekend!